Letter from Perkin’s son, with a sample of dyed silk
Mauveine, also known as aniline purple and Perkin’s mauve, was one of the first synthetic dyes.
Hubner (2006). “History – 150 Years of mauveine”. Chemie in unserer Zeit. 40 (4): 274–275. doi:10.1002/ciuz.200690054.
Anthony S. Travis (1990). “Perkin’s Mauve: Ancestor of the Organic Chemical Industry”. Technology and Culture. 31 (1): 51–82. doi:10.2307/3105760. JSTOR3105760.
A Microscale Synthesis of Mauve Scaccia, Rhonda L.; Coughlin, David; Ball, David W. J. Chem. Educ.1998 75 769 Abstract
Mauveine A (C26H23N+4X−) incorporates 2 molecules of aniline, one of p-toluidine, and one of o-toluidine. Mauveine B (C27H25N+4X−) incorporates one molecule each of aniline, p-toluidine, and two of o-toluidine. In 1879, Perkin showed mauveine B related to safranines by oxidative/reductive loss of the p-tolyl group.
The molecular structure of mauveine proved difficult to determine, finally being identified in 1994.
Meth-Cohn, O.; Smith, M. (1994). “What did W. H. Perkin actually make when he oxidised aniline to obtain mauveine?”. Journal of the Chemical Society, Perkin Transactions 1. 1994: 5–7. doi:10.1039/P19940000005.
In 2007, two more were isolated and identified: mauveine B2, an isomer of mauveine B with methyl on different aryl group, and mauveine C, which has one more p-methyl group than mauveine A.
Seixas De Melo, J.; Takato, S.; Sousa, M.; Melo, M. J.; Parola, A. J. (2007). “Revisiting Perkin’s dye(s): The spectroscopy and photophysics of two new mauveine compounds (B2 and C)”. Chemical Communications (25): 2624–6. doi:10.1039/b618926a. PMID17579759.
In 2008, additional mauveines and pseudomauveines were discovered, bringing the total number of these compounds up to 12.
Sousa, Micaela M.; Melo, Maria J.; Parola, A. Jorge; Morris, Peter J. T.; Rzepa, Henry S.; De Melo, J. Sérgio Seixas (2008). “A Study in Mauve: Unveiling Perkin’s Dye in Historic Samples”. Chemistry – A European Journal. 14 (28): 8507–8513. doi:10.1002/chem.200800718. hdl:10316/8229. PMID18671308.
In 2015 a crystal structure was reported for the first time.
Professor Charles Rees—wearing a bow tie dyed with an original sample of mauveine—holding an RSC journal named after Perkin
In 1856, William Henry Perkin, then age 18, was given a challenge by his professor, August Wilhelm von Hofmann, to synthesize quinine. In one attempt, Perkin oxidized aniline using potassium dichromate, whose toluidine impurities reacted with the aniline and yielded a black solid, suggesting a “failed” organic synthesis. Cleaning the flask with alcohol, Perkin noticed purple portions of the solution.
It was originally called aniline purple. In 1859, it was named mauve in England via the French name for the mallow flower, and chemists later called it mauveine.
Between 1859 and 1861, mauve became a fashion must have. The weekly journal All the Year Round described women wearing the colour as “all flying countryward, like so many migrating birds of purple paradise”.
Punch magazine published cartoons poking fun at the huge popularity of the colour “The Mauve Measles are spreading to so serious an extent that it is high time to consider by what means [they] may be checked.”
By 1870, demand succumbed to newer synthetic colors in the synthetic dye industry launched by mauveine.
In the early 20th century, the U.S. National Association of Confectioners permitted mauveine as a food coloring with a variety of equivalent names: rosolan, violet paste, chrome violet, anilin violet, anilin purple, Perkin’s violet, indisin, phenamin, purpurin and lydin.
Leffmann, Henry; William Beam (1901). Select Methods in Food Analysis. Philadelphia: P. Blakiston’s Son & Co. p. 77. perkins tyrian.purple.
Laborers in the aniline dye industry were later found to be at increased risk of bladder cancer, specifically transitional cell carcinoma, yet by the 1950s, the synthetic dye industry had helped transform medicine, including cancer treatment.
John E Lesch, The First Miracle Drugs: How the Sulfa Drugs Transformed Medicine (New York: Oxford University Press, 2007), pp 202–3
D J Th Wagener, The History of Oncology (Houten: Springer, 2009), pp 150–1.
References
Hubner (2006). “History – 150 Years of mauveine”. Chemie in unserer Zeit. 40 (4): 274–275. doi:10.1002/ciuz.200690054.
Anthony S. Travis (1990). “Perkin’s Mauve: Ancestor of the Organic Chemical Industry”. Technology and Culture. 31 (1): 51–82. doi:10.2307/3105760. JSTOR3105760.
Meth-Cohn, O.; Smith, M. (1994). “What did W. H. Perkin actually make when he oxidised aniline to obtain mauveine?”. Journal of the Chemical Society, Perkin Transactions 1. 1994: 5–7. doi:10.1039/P19940000005.
Seixas De Melo, J.; Takato, S.; Sousa, M.; Melo, M. J.; Parola, A. J. (2007). “Revisiting Perkin’s dye(s): The spectroscopy and photophysics of two new mauveine compounds (B2 and C)”. Chemical Communications (25): 2624–6. doi:10.1039/b618926a. PMID17579759.
Sousa, Micaela M.; Melo, Maria J.; Parola, A. Jorge; Morris, Peter J. T.; Rzepa, Henry S.; De Melo, J. Sérgio Seixas (2008). “A Study in Mauve: Unveiling Perkin’s Dye in Historic Samples”. Chemistry – A European Journal. 14 (28): 8507–8513. doi:10.1002/chem.200800718. hdl:10316/8229. PMID18671308.